Insider's New Orleans: Mardi Gras

How to do Mardi Gras like a pro!

*** I will be running my tours in the Garden District through Mardi Gras, so if you are coming down, be sure to book a food tour while you are between parades! ***

First the facts:

• Mardi Gras Day changes every year- the day before Ash Wednesday, it is the kick off to Lent. Lent ends with Easter and Easter moves on the calendar every year, so Mardi Gras moves with it. Be sure to check the calendar before planning!

• Mardi Gras in New Orleans is more than just Mardi Gras Day (Fat Tuesday). Carnival officially begins with Twelfth Night, twelve days after Christmas, and I ride the streetcar and toss hand-decorated vinyl records with Funky Uptown Krewe to celebrate! Other parades begin weeks before and you can plan to visit the city up to a month before and still catch a parade or two. Coming early in the season will be more affordable and is a good way to "dip your toe" into Mardi Gras your first time around. Mardi Gras Day is a whole other ball of wax- it will require planning & provisions- EVERYTHING is closed for the day outside of the French Quarter and transportation is tricky. It starts early (St Anne and Zulu are at 8:00am) and requires that you roll with the punches, pack snacks and expect a day to remember.

• Understand the parade routes and transportation restrictions- read my post about getting around so you can avoid any frustration and confusion.

Now the tips:

• When and where to catch parades? This website is my Bible for parade schedules & planning and what krewes/parades might interest you (each Krewe has their own parade and many weekends, parades will run back to back). Most of you will want to pay attention to three sections of town: Uptown, Marigny & French Quarter. Most parades are Uptown, NOT the French Quarter! FQ parades are usually smaller, walking parades, almost all Uptown parades will end up at Canal St. on the edge of the French Quarter so you can catch them there, but I DEFINTELY recommend venturing up past the Calliope St. overpass to experience Mardi Gras with the locals (these parades mostly roll down St. Charles Ave. and I like to stand anywhere between Jackson Ave and Louisiana Ave.). Once you've planned your day, times & location, download the Parade Tracker app, which tracks parades at their start so you can see when they're near you, if they have a delay along the route and where the end of the parade is in relation to your location- it's super helpful when you're out on the parade route.

• MY PICKS: the Orpheus parade has some of the most beautiful floats and is one of my favorite parades for the artistry & theme. Barkus is a costumed dog parade through the French Quarter that I NEVER miss. Chewbacchus is a parade for all things nerd- subkrewes cosplay their favorite theme and create contraptions to ride, pull and push- it's very creative and more home-made since there are no gas-powered vehicles allowed. Krewe du Vieux is also a motor-free parade but uses mules, and is not PG-rated- it's known for biting satire, political humor and funny takes on adult themes. Women's krewes like Muses, Iris, Cleopatra & Femme Fetale have become famous for their great throws- fanny packs, make-up brushes, t-shirts, hair accessories- and Bacchus has really stepped up their game with throws that fit that year's theme, like silicone kitchen utensils for a culinary theme in 2024 & pairs of socks celebrating different festivals in New Orleans in 2025.

• What to bring & how to prepare for parades? Dress accordingly- wear very comfortable shoes, layers if it's chilly & pack a poncho. You'll be standing outside for a long time, so you want to be comfy. Bring ear plugs if you have sensitive hearing - the marching bands get really close to the crowds. You'll also want to bring a reusable shopping bag to store your coolest "throws" (goodies you catch from the floats). Bring snacks & scout out the nearest bar for bathroom and drink runs- you can BYOB also. But secure the bathroom situation BEFORE the parade starts. Some places will charge a nominal fee ($5-10) for a wristband that lets you use the bathroom all day- churches, bakeries & cafes, shops, event venues, etc. will be your bathroom go-to, bars can have REALLY long lines. BRING CASH & small bills- besides making it easy at the bar, some night parades have "flambaeux" guys who carry fire & you can tip them a dollar- it's a tradition I like to keep alive! You can pick up themed clothes/accessories and purple, green and gold (the official colors of Mardi Gras) shirts/tutus/tights & more at retail shops all along Magazine St.- support small, local businesses and get a great souvenir to bring home. DON'T purchase beads at a shop & don't bother with a mask like you see in the tourist places in the French Quarter- no one really wears those Venetian-style masks.

• What are "throws"? Besides beads, riders toss down all sorts of goodies! And don't be shy- Mardi Gras is a time to be loud & have fun so wave at the riders & yell!

• What's a "krewe"? Krewes are organizations descendent from the social clubs dating way back to the 1700s. Iris, the oldest women's krewe, began in 1918, and Zulu, a black men's krewe, dates back to 1916 and counts Louis Armstrong amoung their past kings. Krewes have "royalty" and riders, while mostly locals, come from all over the country to participate in the parade. They pay dues (sometimes in the thousands of dollars) and purchase and make their throws. Most krewes will have a signature "throw" that is treasured and highly hand-decorated, that they toss down to the clammoring crowd. Muses has shoes (highly glittered & decorated in themes, they can be real works of art!), Iris has sunglasses, Tucks has toilet plungers (don't worry they are toy plungers!), Zulu has painted coconuts... you get the idea. To be graced with a signature throw is an honor so leave room in your suitcase to bring it home.

• Etiquette & when to arrive: Don't arrive right before the parade and stand in front of a family that has been out there set up for hours. There are no "front row seats" to the parade so just navigate carefully where you post up to stand- you'll be standing in front of someone seated, but it is expected. Just be considerate of space around you and who you are blocking from seeing the parade- it is best to arrive early and find your own spot. There is the "sidewalk side" and the "neutral ground side" (also known as a median) and people have their preferences- find which you like best. See safety tips for etiquette also.

• Kids: Mardi Gras is for families! Despite its tawdry reputation, there are TONS of kids at the parades & it's a family affair. Feel free to help some of our shorter parade-goers get goodies from the riders by passing down throws that are intended for them and feel free to give them any toys or cool light up stuff you catch but don't want.

• IMPORTANT SAFETY TIPS:

  • Don't cross the street in the middle of a school's line-up. The line-up includes the band, the dance team, cheerleaders & a variety of other school performance groups and people darting into their formation is a BIG no-no. Chaperones protect the sidelines, so make sure to cross after the last chaperone & when in doubt ask a neighbor if it's OK- most locals have been yelled at & know!

  • Do not ever cross the street over a hitch connecting floats- even if they are stopped. This is extremely dangerous- walk around to the rear of the float (if it is stopped) or wait for it to pass.

  • Don't mess with the horses- there is a lot of noise & lights and even well-trained horses can get spooked. Keep your distance.

  • Be careful near the floats- watch your fingers & toes near the wheels. You'll be surprised how close you can get to the floats and you can get wrapped up in trying to reach for a throw, which is how people trip & fall all the time. Just stay aware of your surroundings and take a break and step back a few feet into the crowd, away from the front row, if you've been drinking and are getting clumsy. Simply watching the parade can be just as fun!

  

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